View Single Post
Old Dec 21 2019, 07:57 PM   #5147
Senior Member
Zelandeth's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Milton Keynes

Fan of: Dragonsdawn
Now Reading: Working my way through the whole Pern series
Default Re: What is happening

Given the Lada is going to a friend I'm trying to deal with a few of the items on the to do list before handing it over.

The exhaust has been a mess since before I got the car. The front section is fine, the cat is fine (and healthy judging from the MOT emission test result), the tailpipe is a bit last it's best but gas tight, the intermediate section however is utterly knackered. This section however is unique to the cat equipped Riva - which only existed for a couple of years, and as such have always been hard to find. The one supplier which did carry them.however has ceased to exist in the last couple of years, and even a thorough dig around on eBay etc couldn't find one anywhere.

Cue a trip round to a local stainless specialist. They're quite happy to make me up a replacement in stainless steel for around £150, but requested that I provide a fresh tailpipe as they didn't want to mess around with crusty looking slip joints. They're only £30, so I'm fine with that...and fair enough. I hate dealing with crusty exhausts too. Especially if you're trying to reuse stuff.

One bonus was that at least judging from the diagram in the listing, it does in fact look to be the correct one for the estate.

The saloon one just comes straight out the back of the silencer, the estate one however is cranked towards the offside. This is because the bumper on the estate is slightly lower, so the saloon exhaust sits really close to the towing eye (which is attached to the bumper mount), and quite often will clonk against it when the engine stops. The estate ones are harder to find and most people don't know there are two types, so most have incorrect one fitted. Once that arrives I'll get that booked in to be properly sorted. Will be the first time the exhaust will have been properly gas tight in my ownership of the car.

The heater in the van had finally drained the five litre can I had been feeding it from, giving me a good opportunity to swap it out for a proper fuel supply. Eventually this will be spliced into the feed from the vehicle tank...however the plumbing I want to get at is hidden above the fuel tank. I do want to drop the tank at some point both to rust proof above it and to hopefully clear the vent line out properly so it takes less than a week and a half to fill. For now though we're going to use the ten litre one the heater was supplied with. I've stuffed this in the area the gas locker will surround once I finish rebuilding it. It's out of the way and nowhere near anything that gets hot, so I'm not bothered about it being in the cabin...diesel isn't exactly the greatest fire hazard in the world.

The fuel line has been clipped to the wall since the photo was taken.

It's not mounted off level, the drive I'm parked on is on a slope.

Of course having fitted a new fuel line I had to prime the system again - cue truly comical clouds of smoke when the burner finally did fire up again. This blanketed half the drive before eventually clearing its throat.

Talking of smoke... let's take a bit of a closer look at that Lucas diesel smoke opacity tester shall we? The progress to date had been to get the computer element (which turned out to be a Psion Organizer II - much to the glee of the retro technology geek in me) up and running...even if I was still unsure how to actually use it. The machine itself though is designed to run off vehicle power, so I'd been waiting until I could shuffle the passenger seat forward and work on it at a sensible enough time of the evening so I could have the van running (as it pulls a couple of hundred watts).

There are only two buttons on the machine aside from the computer itself. One on the "remote" which also has a four digit seven segment LCD display and one on the "console" for want of a better term. Oh, and a knob which appears to be the on/off switch.

Pushing the one on the console initially scared the living daylights out of me as the printer chattered into life.

YouTube Link

Astonishingly despite sitting idle for goodness knows how long, the printer ribbon still had a enough ink on to just about produce a ledgible printout.

The ribbon clearly needs replacing though. Tiny little thing.

Helpfully unlike some I've come across it does have a number marked on the back.

A quick poke around on Google shows this to be used by a plethora of printing calculators and receipt printers, so they're readily available for less than £2. I'll get a new one ordered in soon. However I wanted to try an old trick. Back when dot matrix printers were the norm it was normal to get a bit more mileage out of a ribbon by giving it a scoosh of WD40 into the casing. I still have the Panasonic KX-P2624 I used to use that trick on! Wonder if that would work on this one too.

That will be a yes then! Looks like the new ribbon can wait a bit. They're so cheap though I'll get one ordered in anyway as the existing one is a bit frayed in a few places.

I wanted to take a closer look at the light source to see if it was anything special.

Not really from the looks of it. The metal rim is a little unusual on a lamp like this in recent years, but not so much back when this thing was made. Haven't seen any markings on it from a quick glance, beam doesn't look to be anything particularly unusual I suspect it is indeed a pretty normal MR16 dichroic halogen lamp. Pretty narrow beam, but nothing too special.

Hopefully the manual will tell me more when I eventually find one. Those of you with better search skills than me, feel free to go digging. I'm sure there is an electronic version out there somewhere.

This is one of the reasons I could do with a manual.

The user interface isn't exactly...intuitive. Here are a few examples of what it throws at you.

Those "floating" segments move up and down too, so definitely indicate something!

Pressing the button cycles through each of the functions.

Forgot to get a photo of them but I think I've figured out two of them - one suffixed with L I think shows the air flow rate through the machine (presumably in litres/minute) and the other suffixed with the letter C, which shows the airflow temperature. The rest however I need some help with!

This message at least makes some sense!

I'm assuming this is showing "line voltage low" as it was shown when I had it hooked up without the van engine running. As soon as the engine was started it went back to showing the usual nonsense...which I'm sure isn't nonsense, I just don't know how to interpret it yet.

Would also be nice to know the intended use for these connections. They sprout out of another box on a massively long lead which hooks up to the unit itself with those lovely horrifically expensive twist lock connectors.

Guessing battery ground and alternator W terminal so the machine can estimate the engine speed?

No idea whether the computer is used for anything yet either...though given it's specifically user accessible I'm guessing it's meant to be used for something. Possibly just entering the reg number and tester name or something like that I reckon...but it's not immediately apparent how.

Yeah...a manual would be useful.
Zelandeth is offline   Reply With Quote