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Old Jan 11 2020, 06:44 PM   #5201
Zelandeth
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Figured it was time to stop cowering in fear and actually open the bonnet of the Jag again.

No huge surprises to be honest (and it is just as terrifyingly complicated as I remembered). Hasn't used any detectable amount of oil or coolant on the trip home or driving around yesterday which is nice to see.

Quite a lot of surface corrosion on everything which fits given that the car has barely been used for a not insignificant number of years. Oh, and the air conditioning belt is not fitted as we were already aware.





Slightly intrigued by the little red anodised cylinder by the nearside brace.



In the absence of anything to suggest the contrary I'm guessing this is either a filter/silencer or a check valve attached to a vent line of some description as there doesn't seem to be anything nearby which could connect to it. Guessing the original unit died of old age. At the very least this one will get painted black as it currently looks daft.

Looks like the distributor cap will be "fun" to change.



The HT leads at least seem to be relatively recent - based on how supple they feel anyway. Even though it will be an utter pig to get to, I'll probably change the cap sooner than later as it's the sort of thing I usually do as a matter of course on any new car.

The throttles definitely need balancing I reckon. Just based on how much air it feels like is being pulled through each of the air intakes it feels like the left bank is doing far more work than the right.

One fault I had noticed right back when collecting it was that I only had one functioning reversing light and that looked very dim. Quick examination revealed a dead 21W lamp in one side and a 5W one in the working light...explains why it was so feeble. Nice easy fix.



Helped by Jaguar having used stainless steel fasteners on the light clusters...oh how I wish Saab did...

Oh, and for the record, the engine isn't running in the above photo, it's just in reverse with the of ignition on...I don't trust the handbrake enough to get out with the car in gear and engine running.

While in the area of the rear of the car, I'd noticed that the courtesy lights in the boot didn't work. Turned out they were both disconnected. Reconnecting them restored full functionality.



Confirmed they're switching off (and staying off) by sticking my phone in there and recording video while I closed and then generally messed around with the bootlid. The photo makes them look brighter than they really are though, they're a bit feeble to be honest. For practical reasons these lights may have warm white LEDs fitted in due course to increase their output to useful levels.

The oil pressure gauge sender was investigated while I had the bonnet open (I still love the opening/closing action and the way the latches pull the bonnet closed when you reset the handle). No part numbers I can see on it.



According to the former keepers this was ordered correctly based on the chassis number...and they're reasonably confident that the issue is with the instrument panel. So this will require further investigation.

The other issue which has come up requiring actual immediate attention (electrical, no surprises there!) is that yesterday afternoon the previously dead illumination for the tape slot on the stereo suddenly sprang back to life. However it then resolutely refused to go out again, being totally unaffected by anything else. I gave it the benefit of the doubt and decided to see if it would go out after a while on its own. Did it?



That will be a no then. The red LED is fine, that's the immobiliser fob detector and is allowed to be blinking away. So for tonight I've pulled one of the battery leads. On the plus side this takes five seconds to do because it's in the boot. I'll try to investigate that tomorrow. Hopefully it's not a serious problem with the head unit (which otherwise seems to function perfectly) and can be easily resolved.
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Old Jan 12 2020, 12:44 PM   #5202
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Nice acquisiton, Zelandeth! If I had any room and knowledge of cars I would probably buy something like this to drive and fool around with Such a nice car!
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Old Jan 12 2020, 03:25 PM   #5203
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First task for today was to check the throttle balance.

The throttle actuation rods were waaaay out of whack, meaning that the throttle pulley was resting a good 1/2" off the closed throttle stop. This was due to the left one. The right one is currently seized in its bushing but has been left soaking in Plusgas so I'll give it another poke in the future. At least with my foot off the throttle the throttle position sensor will be seeing that the throttle is actually closed now.

When I checked everything at rest after that was adjusted, we had 4% CO on the left bank and 0.5% CO on the right.

After adjusting the stop screws I was able to get things stable at 1% on the right and 1.2% on the left. I was kind of hoping I could aim for 1.5% (smack in the middle of the 1-2% quoted in the handbook), but I couldn't open the driver's side up any further without opening the throttle itself because I couldn't adjust the actuating rod on that side.

Right:



Left:


It's a lot closer to correct than it was. The car smelled very obviously rich before, it doesn't now so it seems I've done something right. Idle is very obviously smoother too.

Next up was some detective work to figure out why the lighting in the stereo was refusing to go out.

Pulling it out of the dash revealed clear evidence that someone has been in here before.



Have to wonder if this was more recently when the speakers were changed or if it was back when the head unit was replaced back in 1988.



Helpfully the handbook for the head unit contains a clear wiring diagram which made the detective work a lot easier.



Didn't take more than a couple of minutes to track down that someone had connected what should be the permanent live for the memory backup to the line which should be connected to the dash lighting circuit. That will be why it was always lit up then. Goodness only knows how long it's been like that.

At first I couldn't actually find the wire for this, but after groping around blindly for several minutes I found this.



...Which when tested turned out to have 12V present on it when the headlights were turned on. That will be the illumination feed then.

Having connected this to the appropriate terminal, tested it and stuffed it back into the dash it initially didn't work. Well it did but I couldn't receive anything because the terminal for the power antenna had been pulled out. Second time round, having more carefully routed the wiring bundle we had better luck.

Headlights off:



Headlights on:



It's hard to tell from the photo, but the display is dimmed when the lights are on. Sadly the bulbs which should provide lighting to the buttons on the stereo have burned out, so I'll need to conduct some microsurgery to sort that at some point in the future. For now though it has solved the problem with it refusing to switch fully off. Do wonder how long this has been causing issues with battery drain...

The four screws which were meant to secure the cage for the head unit to the dash were also missing...so someone didn't take much care when they were in here last.

Feels like a reasonably productive afternoon.
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Old Jan 14 2020, 08:58 PM   #5204
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Let's have a look at the non functional full throttle kickdown.

Having done a bit of research I discovered that the kickdown system is meant to be triggered by a microswitch on the throttle cable right next to the throttle cable tower.

The way it works is that when the throttle itself hits the stop at full travel, if you press the pedal further it then pulls the sheath of the cable back against a strong spring, which then acts against a microswitch.

This relies on the cable being pretty much perfectly adjusted to get sufficient travel to activate the switch...and sure enough mine wasn't even close. It's a quick and easy thing to adjust though (probably the only easy to access adjustment in the whole engine bay!), so was a quick matter to correct that.

Sadly it hasn't apparently resolved the issue, though I've yet to confirm the switch itself is working (they're apparently not particularly reliable) as the meter was making a bid for freedom the moment I let go of it because of the wind. I gave up when the bonnet blew shut on me for the second time.

If that switch is working, there's a deeper issue...but I'm not going to worry too much about it just now. It really doesn't affect the driveability of the car (the normal "mild" kickdown feature works fine, it's just the "kick in the pants" mode that is acting up). On a car with more mild power availability it might be more of a headache.

Something a bit less involved needing looked at is the state of the wood trim. It's the first thing people notice in the car.







The wood itself actually looks to be in good nick. It's just the lacquer layer that's peeling off - not unlike a Dante Red Citroen!

I've never dealt with anything like this but have a rough plan of attack in mind. The bit I'm expecting to be the biggest headache by far is physically detaching the bits of trim from the car so I can work on them.

Probably the trickiest bit with regards to the actual wood I reckon will be getting the remains of the old lacquer off. I'm not expecting it to just peel off nicely, and will probably have to get some paint stripper involved. I don't think sanding is an option as I reckon because it's patchy it would leave high and low spots...also I don't know how thick the veneer is and really don't want to risk rubbing through it.

Once I've got rid of the old manky lacquer it should be pretty simple I think. Quick coat of stain to give it some colour, a skim over with some really gentle sandpaper to key the surface, then a load of light coats of clear coat. I believe polyurethane varnish is normally used commercially...though part of me is wondering if normal automotive clear coat could be used? Both because it removes the requirement for brush painting (which I hate) and I have it in stock in the garage.

Open to suggestions from folks who actually know what they're doing there as this is a bit of a new challenge for me...is the first car I've had with actual wood trim for one thing!

I mentioned a couple of days ago that the lights in the boot which I had revived were pretty pathetic. Having a rummage through the box of "misc automotive bulbs" this morning I came across a couple of 5W LED festoon lamps which I'd stuffed in there a couple of years ago. They're a horrible 6000K bluish colour, which is why I had just stuffed them in the box and forgotten. However for a boot light I'm not so bothered about the colour temperature as it's purely practical.

With the first one in the difference in brightness is immediately obvious! The one on the left is barely even visible.



Reckon that will be a bit more useful when digging things out in the dead of night.



Hopefully the weather tomorrow will be slightly less ridiculous and I can get a couple more things done.

The brake judder should soon be sorted as a set of discs has been ordered. Was braced for eye watering prices but they weren't too bad, can't remember exactly what the number was, but I think the pair of discs and pads was around £100. Was bracing for several times that. Will be nice to get that done as it's really the only thing that's really obviously amiss from the driver's seat to be honest.
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Old Jan 15 2020, 07:07 PM   #5205
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This really is a car which encourages you to go the long way to get places.

Like home to the charity shop over at Kiln Farm I check in on semi regularly as they usually have a good selection of vinyl that's mostly £0.50 apiece...a trip that's about four or five miles...but I ended up going via Buckingham, just because I could. Still didn't want to get out when I got there!

The windscreen washers have decided to pack in today. I'm guessing as with most cars of this age this is due to slime growing in the bottom of the washer bottle. It's easily accessible though so no problem. I'll pull it out tomorrow and give it a really good clean, then blow all the lines back through with compressed air. Sure it will be absolutely fine once that's done.

One modification I am definitely going to do is the deletion of the 15 minute "warm up timer" system. What this does is that if the coolant temperature is below 45C (measured by its own sensor to the rear of the right hand coolant manifold), for the first fifteen minutes it disables the vacuum advance system and retards the timing. This makes the engine less efficient, producing more heat and helping it heat up more quickly. It also means that for the first fifteen minutes it absolutely massacres your fuel economy. You'll be lucky to see the instantaneous MPG figure make it into double digits until this has timed out.

Given there is 5.3 litres of quite highly tuned V12 producing heat, it'll warm up in a perfectly reasonable amount of time, even though the engine weighs something ridiculous... there's really no need to deliberately make the thing use more petrol than it needs to!

Luckily this system can be disabled really simply by unplugging the appropriate temperature sensor. The associated hardware can also be removed to help improve space in what's possibly the most cluttered engine bay ever designed (I'm not sure designed is the right word..."happened" seems more accurate), though that's not strictly necessary.

Speaking of heating, the heater is something which needs help. Pretty certain that the tube has come adrift from the duct used to sample the cabin air temperature (or the thermistor value has drifted) as the only way to get any appreciable heat out of it is to set it to the demist mode. Bit of explanation needed here for those who have never used the heater in one of these. When it's set to anything other than demist the temperature is dialled in to a set value between 65 and 85F. There's no "as hot or cold as possible" setting. Which is fine and good when the system is correctly sampling the cabin...but a pain when it's not. The demist mode overrides this and just chucks out as much heat as possible, with the blowers set to maximum. It's also worth noting that there's no air distribution control like on most cars. So the only way to get air into the windscreen is to set it to demist...which puts the blower on full! I reckon that will be less of an issue once the air conditioning has been sorted as the cabin will then always be dehumidified...however it's currently a pain to keep it demisted - though the fact it's never stopped raining since I picked the car up hasn't probably helped. When it's set to demist you should get as much heat as possible, full power to both blower motors and air distribution set to 90% to the windscreen, 10% to the floor level vents. However the air coming out of the lower vents is never warm. So reckon there's an air distribution issue there. That's a job for another day though, I'm not pulling the dashboard apart yet.

Hard to believe I've done nearly 400 miles in it already! Wonder how many years of its previous life that would account for...
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Old Jan 16 2020, 01:40 AM   #5206
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Swapping a Lada for a Jag? Way to go! That's quite a story. And I bet it'll be an absolutely awesome car once you get it fixed up.



That pocket knife with the retractable blade? Looks pretty much like what I used to carry when I worked in retail.
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Old Jan 16 2020, 05:29 PM   #5207
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450 miles in.

MPG on the last tank? Uuuuum...10.98MPG. Yeah, economy isn't her strong suit. That warmup timer needs to get in the sea and we'll see how much that helps. The trip computer is far more accurate than most modern ones seem to be. At least I can track it properly now... previously I was having issues there as I hadn't been able to get the tripometer to reset and the counter on the trip computer was getting wiped as I was disconnecting the battery overnight prior to sorting the stereo wiring issue.

Been busy most of today, so aside from briefly introducing a local friend to the Jag (yep, they were as surprised as I was to see it in my fleet!), I've not had a chance to do much with cars. Weather has been distinctly miserable anyway and not really conducive to working on cars.

However on departing the house to run one of many errands I was presented with this:



The way the lamp failure system works in the Jag is that if an appropriate amount of current flows through the lamp, a bimetallic switch in closes after 10-20 seconds after the respective lighting circuit is turned on to tell the system that the lamp is good, at which point the indicator on the dash goes out. If it doesn't detect this "lamp good" signal, the indicator stays lit.

In this case examination revealed that a number plate light was indeed out. Simply tapping the fitting restored it to operation though rather than the lamp needing replaced. So I'll add "clean number plate light contacts" to the to do list.

Good, because I could have done without standing in the pouring rain sorting that!
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Old Jan 17 2020, 11:47 AM   #5208
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So about 11 mpg? Is that Imperial gallons? If so, that translates to about 12.5 or so US gallons. Does that make you feel better.

I thought not. The Dodge Viper V-12 was/is rated at 12 MPG city, 19 MPG hiway. But that's probably a much lighter car.
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Old Jan 17 2020, 02:54 PM   #5209
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That's miles per Imperial gallon - so 4.55 litres.

Made a quick run out of town today, partly for a change of scenery and partly as it's an excuse to drive on (slightly) nicer roads.

This has definitely improved my average fuel consumption from the previous 11mpg, but is still "far from frugal."



I think one of my jobs for this weekend will be getting stuck into the distributor and making sure the vacuum advance system is working properly. Apparently the old grease dries up and causes the system to lock up. The obvious consequences of this being an engine that's down on power and horrific fuel economy. The former is quite hard to detect given the abundance of torque available from this power unit!

This also has a huge impact on the exhaust gas temperature which really isn't great for the exhaust valves, which is something we want to rectify sooner than later I think given my reading seems to suggest that these engines dropping valve seats isn't unknown if the heads get unduly hot.

Now, to figure out how to get at the distributor without having to remove the cruise control assembly and half of the fuel injection system...

The "Hey, that's a lovely looking car...wait...that's *my* car!" reaction when walking back to it in car parks definitely has hasn't worn off yet.





Managed to get it a very quick blast over at the jet wash today (hoping to do it by hand at the weekend so mainly wanted to get the moss out of the window seals etc), get the impression this won't come up bad with a bit of work.



At least I've got rid of the huge greasy hand print I left on the bonnet a few days ago now.
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Old Jan 18 2020, 07:22 PM   #5210
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Finally had an opportunity to give the Jag a proper wash today.







Which gave me the chance to give the bodywork a bit of a better appraisal.

The rear arches definitely need some attention sooner rather than later. Probably not a massive job to sort now, but give it a few years and it will be far harder.

Not quite sure what's going on with the number plate lights. Looks like the lenses have sort of disintegrated (and half painted over during the respray).



There are a couple of wide washers on the original screws which are sort of wedging the lens half in place. Methinks replacing these will be on the cards. Though they're £25 apiece so might not be particularly high on the list just now.

Spotted something which I'll need to attend to at some point shortly. Looks like the seals under the feed hoses to the brake master cylinder need changed.



I'll make sure it's not the hose weeping first though.

While the car was actually clean for ten seconds I decided to grab a couple of better photos.





















Figured that the next thing it would be sensible to do would be to throw some wax on to protect the paint until I have time to fully polish it. This it turned out was a mistake. I didn't spot the words "new and improved formula" on the bottle of aqua wax until after I'd sprayed half the car with it. Being new and apparently improved of course translates to "no longer behaves as I expect it to." As such I then spent nearly two hours trying to buff it off, without seeming to get anywhere.

Tomorrow I'll set about polishing and waxing it properly if the weather plays ball.

Planning to get into the distributor in the week when I should have a couple of afternoons with a decent chunk of time without interruption. Don't want to do that tomorrow as there's too much chance of me getting dragged off for other tasks and it's a job I'd rather get done in one shot rather than having to down tools and come back having forgotten half of what I'm doing.

Last little job I had a look at before tidying up was to see if the foggy reversing light lenses would clean up. It's a small detail but their being milky, dull and yellowed is quite obvious when looking at the rear of the car.

Before:



After:



That scrubbed up nicely, could probably do with a second pass (and the polish residue cleaning out of the lettering), but looks far better. I'll probably do all of the tail light lenses as even though they're not as bad as the reversing light ones they're all quite dull.

Speaking of tail lights, I do wonder how much of the US spec running lights is present in the cluster...I believe over there the little retro reflector in the side facing part of the indicator would have had a little 5W lamp behind it.

Sorry, I will stop spamming the thread with photos of this car eventually...
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Old Jan 19 2020, 03:52 AM   #5211
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Cool pix once again! Have you given any thought to restoring the woodwork? On one episode of Wheeler Dealers they restored it in a 1965 Mark 2, but no doubt youtube has lots of how-to videos.
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Old Jan 19 2020, 07:04 AM   #5212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by granath View Post
Cool pix once again! Have you given any thought to restoring the woodwork? On one episode of Wheeler Dealers they restored it in a 1965 Mark 2, but no doubt youtube has lots of how-to videos.
Yep, that's going to be addressed pretty soon. With the exception of two small pieces next to the trip computer it's in fine shape structurally and just needs refinishing.



Those two bits have cracked so will need to be repaired first. Small enough parts though that it shouldn't be a problem as any line left where the crack currently is won't really be obvious.

My plan is pretty simple.

[] Remove from car.
[] Strip remaining lacquer off. Once the paint stripper is on it should show me what the colour will look like when finished, so I can make a call on whether any stain is worth adding.
[] If it looks too pale, apply some stain to the wood.
[] Sand with some very fine paper to renew and key the surface.
[] Apply a bunch of thin coats of clear coat. I'll probably just use automotive paint for this as it's relatively easy to get a really nice high gloss finish with and I have it in stock.

That should get us a perfectly acceptable finish I reckon. Maybe not quite as perfect as when it left the factory, but more than good enough. Currently it really is the first thing you notice in the cabin though so it needs sorting.
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Old Jan 19 2020, 07:33 PM   #5213
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Yesterday I ended the day with a car covered in smeary, hazy wax marks that refused to buff off. This was highly annoying.



That bottle has now been binned. I'm not playing that game again.

Step one for today, after a bit of experimentation, was to polish the car end to end to get rid of that residue.



Much better. Though having just made the car shiny again, it was immediately made un-shiny again by throwing lots of (probably a bit much to be honest, but I struggled to get this to go on thinly) wax at it.



This behaved much more as expected and didn't cause me any headaches.

I did give the tail light lenses a skim over with the cutting paste to bring them back to life a bit as they were quite matt and hazy, they came up pretty decent. They're still a bit tired but look way better than they did.



This is the reflector which in the US would have a small lamp behind it serving as one of the position lights I believe. There's an obvious space for a 5W capless lamp but sadly no lamp holder.



Thinking I may retrofit this as these days I'm all for anything which makes the car more visible. I don't believe there's a roadworthiness issue with a steady amber light being shown to the side of the vehicle when the headlights are lit.

At the end of the day once all the wax was buffed off and the bumpers etc given a going over with the rubber treatment this is what we were left with. Need to do that again as they absorbed the rubber treatment like a sponge - guessing it's a while since they saw attention. Looking better though.









Ignore the puddle under the back of the car... that's from the bottle of antifreeze I knocked over in the boot earlier that started leaking unknown to me until I noticed that puddle forming. Oops.

Starting to look like a Jag deserves to.

Last task for the day before I ran out of daylight was to investigate the utterly horrendous reproduction from the stereo. Attempting to turn the bass control up anywhere above zero resulted in it sounding like a gazoo being played through a guitar distortion pedal...

I knew that something looked off about the speaker installation even before I picked up any tools.

The moment I went to remove the covers it became abundantly clear why things were sounding so laughably poor.



Firstly, the speaker isn't fastened to anything aside from the flimsy fibreboard door card. Secondly, it's fastened to the wrong side of it, so the cutout (which I am assuming is sized for the stock speakers...which were probably better than this rubbish) is leaving the door card actively pressed up against the periphery of the speaker cone. Thirdly, the door card is flapping around in the breeze because whoever installed this broke half the trim clips and never replaced the adhesive tape around the edge. Fourthly, they never put a weather shield over the speaker, so it was full of water and consequently is knackered.

While the covers said Kenwood, what came out is Sony badged...but it's clearly a bargain basement piece of Chinesium with a Sony badge on.



The fact that it weighs less than half what the little 100mm driver's I installed in the van last year says a lot I think...only place these are headed is the electronic recycling bin.

It's a shame they've marked the door cards so badly (and I think cut it away a bit on closer inspection) as otherwise I'd look to find a replacement for the original speaker covers and replacement drivers in the original size. As it is, the damage is already done so no point worrying about it. I did wonder about putting these 5x7s in as they've been looking for a home for a few years now (bought for something else where I discovered they were too deep for).



However that will involve hacking away more of the door card which I'd really rather avoid. Plus I'd need to buy a cover for them anyway as I've no idea whatsoever where the ones that came with these speakers have gone.

So I'll pick up something new. Based on what's available locally and at a sensible price, will probably be a pair of Pioneer TS-R1350S units I think as they should fit in the existing cutout (properly fitted this time!). I'll probably get a cheap set of generic plain black mesh covers for them to make it blend in and look a bit less obviously aftermarket. I'll then take a better look at the setup in the back and decide what to do there. It looks like identical speakers have been fitted, and I'm expecting them to have been just as poorly fitted. They're a bit less mission critical though as once the front ones are sorted at least the stereo will be listenable.

I'll obviously take the opportunity to resecure the door cards properly as well and reinstate the weatherproofing shield that I'm sure should be in there. May as well cavity wax the inside of the doors while I'm in there.

Had a shot at getting the washer bottle out for cleaning just before closing up for the evening, however the fasteners are utterly disinterested in moving, so they have been doused in Plusgas and I'll try again tomorrow. At least it's one of the few things in the engine bay that are easy to get to!



So this evening I am finally roughly where I had hoped to be this time yesterday before the nonsense with that horrible Aqua Wax stuff. On the plus side, at least the car has now had at least a quick polish. The bonnet I reckon in particular would benefit from a proper going over with the machine polisher at some point, but the rest of the car hasn't come up badly at all.
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Old Jan 20 2020, 03:50 PM   #5214
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New member here though I've visited this board many times. I am currently enjoying year one in my first house and signing up for goats in the spring. I still read and enjoy playing Pern-based games (go Harper's Tale) where I can practice creative writing. There's other stuff too but I'll take them as they come!
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Old Jan 20 2020, 06:14 PM   #5215
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Default Re: What is happening

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New member here though I've visited this board many times. I am currently enjoying year one in my first house and signing up for goats in the spring. I still read and enjoy playing Pern-based games (go Harper's Tale) where I can practice creative writing. There's other stuff too but I'll take them as they come!
A NEW MEMBER!! Well you are come, young lady! Here's to you and your interest in Anne's works.
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Old Jan 21 2020, 12:06 AM   #5216
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A NEW MEMBER!! Well you are come, young lady! Here's to you and your interest in Anne's works.
Thank you very much! I was hooked in high school and here I am at 34 and still re-reading them and playing characters in her world online along with others who do the same. Some days I feel nerdy but what a cool pastime.
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Old Jan 21 2020, 06:47 PM   #5217
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Originally Posted by Altair View Post
New member here though I've visited this board many times. I am currently enjoying year one in my first house and signing up for goats in the spring. I still read and enjoy playing Pern-based games (go Harper's Tale) where I can practice creative writing. There's other stuff too but I'll take them as they come!
Welcome! Always nice to see new faces (metaphorically speaking in this case of course).

Nothing wrong with spending time in a world other than this one I say!

-- -- --

Edit: Here's my update for today...rather than making a separate post for it, especially as the edit button has decided to work today.

Turns out that I really do need a new distributor cap, the breather line attachment point on it has snapped off at some point and has been messily glued (unsuccessfully) back in place. Given that the distributor venting system pulls air through the cap this is sub optimal as it essentially means I now have a source (albeit a small one) of unfiltered air being drawn into the engine. New cap has been ordered. Seems daft not to do the rotor arm at the same time...though in true Jag fashion it's more expensive than the cap (£25 for the rotor arm, £20 for the cap)! Once these are in my hands I'll get started on striping the distributor down and servicing it.

I wanted to at least try something with the oil pressure gauge today before starting pulling the cluster out to investigate that (there's definitely something amiss as all the gauges read slightly low - aside from the oil pressure one which does the opposite). I can see that the gauge does react to changes in pressure, as it varies when running between being physically pegged against the top of the gauge and sitting on the 100psi marker.

So I wanted to see if I could null out the offset and still get a usable reading by adding an additional resistor in series with the sender. As stated elsewhere, I have little interest in the actual numbers reported by it, I'm far more interested in learning what behaviour is normal for my car and then being able to spot any deviation from that behaviour.

One variable resistor to clip in series with the sender thrown together.



With this clipped in it was a simple matter to "dial in" zero on the gauge with the ignition on but the engine not running.



Sadly it appears that the response curve of this sender is incorrect (or there is something amiss with the gauge itself as we suspect) as this was the highest deflection of the needle I saw at any point with the engine running.



I know these engines don't have great hot oil pressure, but I'd hope for more than that if stone cold.

Time to get the cluster out for a look I think. I need to dismantle it to some extent anyway to free up and lubricate the trip counter reset mechanism which currently jams every time you press the button.

On the list of other small jobs I wanted to get done today was "kill the stupid warmup timer" which disables vacuum advance for 15 minutes from a cold or cold-ish start. This is easy enough to do simply by disconnecting the thermoswitch, which resides to the rear of the right hand coolant manifold. Just about visible in the shadows, centre frame below.



In typical XJS fashion this dead simple job was made slightly more annoying by half the engine being in the way. However after a bit of swearing it was disconnected.



The wires were then cable-tied out of the way. This should hopefully (at least once the vacuum advance system is working fully) save me a fair chunk of fuel around town or during shorter journeys. At some point in the future the hardware involved in this system may well be removed. The general consensus among marque experts is that it's really unnecessary...and I figure anything which removes clutter from that engine bay can only be a good thing.

While doing that though it was noted that quite a few vacuum lines are past their past.



Will get a bunch of hose ordered in and assume they are all in a similar state...never know this might make the cruise control spring back to life! Will take a while to do though, there are a LOT of vacuum lines!

Last edited by Zelandeth; Jan 21 2020 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Jan 22 2020, 07:05 PM   #5218
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This last Dec. I went to a German market. I got Mom a bottle of wine, which she loves. Gerstacker, Bluberry Gliihmein. Arcross the top it says. Vom Nornercer, Spezialtat, does anyone know where I can find it in Virginia?
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Old Jan 23 2020, 07:35 PM   #5219
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The perpetual light drizzle this afternoon put paid to any plans of doing anything outside. Nothing to stop me doing a bit of interior work though.

It's no secret that the warning lights on the dash in the XJS are rather sub par. Most of them quite simply aren't bright enough. The ones for the indicators are probably the worst. Especially as they're half shaded by the internal baffles so only half the light actually gets properly lit.

I have a bag of a couple of hundred flat top warm white LEDs and this seems like a good job for them. I'm not using coloured ones as I just don't think that will look right.

Conveniently I also have a full set of dashboard lamp holders of the correct type that I scavenged from a scrap car years ago, so it was a simple matter to solder an LED and resistor in to one to create a test unit to try out.



Here's what the lights on the dash for the indicators look like as standard.



That is how weedy it actually looks in person. On a sunny day they are basically invisible.

The offside indicator tell tale was the first to get an LED retrofit in the form of my experimental prototype. So how does it compare to the original incandescent version?



The improvement is quite obvious I think. The use of a warm white rather than coloured LED means the colour still looks like a filtered incandescent lamp though which was always a requirement for me. With the exception of the ignition light (as it's actually part of the charging system) I'll probably set about replacing the rest of them. I'm undecided as to whether to also do the lamps which illuminate the panel, I probably will though in the interests of reducing temperatures inside the cluster and removing load from the somewhat marginal flexible PCB. Using warm white LEDs like this should retain the original colour essentially unchanged so it shouldn't be obvious that anything has changed unless you know to look for it.

While I had this apart it also gave me the chance to sort the trim around the instrument cluster which was clipped together totally wrong and was really annoying me.

Before:



Note how the trim is all bunched up in the middle.

After:



This is how it's meant to look. You can see there's now a gap between the top edge of the warning lights and the trim. It was just sitting on there before.

I'll replace the foam around the base which has dissolved at a later date. There's a similarly knackered strip internally at the top which is meant to stop light leaking out above the caution & warning panel which has also dissolved. I've got some black foam weatherstripping which will do just fine as a replacement.

The new speakers for in the front arrived early this evening.



Fitting those will probably happen tomorrow. Will look a lot less conspicuous than the bright red things which were in there before, and I trust Pioneer kit to sound decent too.

The headlamp wiper on the offside was missing 90% of the wiping edge of its blade so obviously wasn't really doing much. These short wipers are ridiculously expensive for what they are, so instead I hacked up the old windscreen wipers I took off the windscreen a week ago and used that to rebuild it.



Was stuffed as far as clearing the windscreen was concerned, will do absolutely fine for a headlamp wiper for a while though. You can see how little the old one was doing in the photo above.

A few parts have arrived from Motorserv as well.



Still astonished the brake discs & pads only came to £111, I was bracing for several times that figure.



There are four metres of fuel line in there too which will be used to replace crusty vacuum lines as they're found. It will be interesting to see if that alone revives the cruise control. That fuel filter will replace that horrible red anodised thing in the engine bay currently, and will look far less out of place.

All little things, but they all add up eventually.

The only other thing of note car wise today was that I decided to put the Invacar on the battery charger for the afternoon. Figure with it having not been run properly in a few months it would probably benefit from it.



I finally got the diesel smokemeter dragged off the van and stuffed into the garage.



It hasn't cleaned up badly really. I do need to try ringing up the manufacturer to see if they can provide me with any documentation with regards to how to drive the thing...though there are only two buttons (and one of those is "print") so it shouldn't be too difficult you'd think!

The drizzle did give me the opportunity to grab a couple of the obligatory water beading photos before we went out today, so it would be rude not to post those wouldn't it...



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Old Jan 24 2020, 06:34 PM   #5220
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Out running some errands earlier and we had a good result in that this started working again.



That was a nice easy fix! Have to assume that one is another thing which was faulty primarily due to it not having been used regularly in years. Investigation of why it wasn't working was somewhere around number nine on the to do list, so nice that it's sprung back to life on its own. The system will be getting serviced in due course, but servicing is easier than restoring a system that's simply "dead."

The first of the new speakers has been installed.



The new speakers being slightly smaller has worked to my advantage in a couple of ways. For one, they look more in proportion I think. Secondly it means that the speaker surrounds no longer catch on the sill kick plate which the ones that came with the car did.

I had to glue some little wooden blocks to the inside of the door card to screw the speaker too as it was fractionally too small to get all four screws attached due to the size of the existing hole. Took all of five minutes to sort though and wasn't something I was worried about as the grills are more than big enough to hide the slightly messy edges.

While I was looking at audio I had a closer peer at the head unit in the dark with a torch to try to confirm (as I've been unable to find a decent photo of this unit) that there is evidence of the buttons being illuminated.

Using a bright light source shone onto them reveals clear portions where the text is, so there definitely should be lighting in there as I expected.





The lamps were probably killed off by the illumination line being incorrectly wired up to the permanent 12V feed for goodness only knows how long. I'll pull it apart at some point to restore functionality of the lighting.

Speaking of lighting curiousity got the better of me as lighting technology is an interest of mine, so I went digging to take a look at the light source for the fibre optics.



It's the silver and black cylinder just right of centre. So pretty easy to get at (just three screws hold the panel above it on). Pulling one of the lines and playing around even with the not particularly bright light from the torch on my keyring shows a great potential for improvement of the lighting. The bottom of the temperature control here is being lit by my torch. Top is the normal light source.



Camera has made it look way brighter than it is...but it's actually visible to the naked eye there...the lighting at the top of the dial wasn't visible above the ambient light to the naked eye. Will be nice to give that a bit of a boost as I think the visual effect looks really nice...it's just laughably dim.

Last edited by Zelandeth; Jan 25 2020 at 09:24 AM. Reason: Correcting autocorrect
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